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No registered ECU found/wrong model listed in license check

So installed this about a week ago on my 2020 MT07 and everything worked fine, flashed it twice with stock maps overlayed with a PCV fuel map I imported. Today I purchased a tune from 2WDW and they sent me the file to flash and went I go to write ecu I got "No registered ECU Found". I have tried rebooting my computer multiple times, reinstalling the ftecu software, checking continuity on the wiring, etc and nothing has worked. When I go to list ecu's in the software it shows my license number but lists my bike as a 2015 JP MT07... wtf. I have only flashed this twice and both times I used the correct 2018 US file. What is going on here???


Comments

  • jason@ftecu.comjason@ftecu.com Posts: 1,071Staff User

    Matt,

    The year and region designation on your end literally mean nothing, it only matters how it is logged on our end. Just make sure you are flashing with the right part number file and like I said don't worry about the designation on your end.

    Anyways, please attempt to reflash it now and marry it to the new license.

    Thanks,

    Jason A.

  • matt.ihnen@gmail.commatt.ihnen@gmail.com Posts: 8Verified User

    Thanks for the response, its weird that you would show the (incorrect) year and region to the end user if it doesn't mean anything but okay.

    So I went to the bike and tried to flash it again and it now asks me if I want to marry the license to which I said okay and then followed the prompts to turn off the key and then back on and it just says failed: no response.

    What do I need to do now?

  • matt.ihnen@gmail.commatt.ihnen@gmail.com Posts: 8Verified User
    edited September 2020

    I assume at this point there is some problem with the connection to the ECU? Seeing as the driver it install is an FTDI driver I'm going to assume this is a UART connection to the ECU so if I check the wires I should see two lines idling high at what I'm guessing is +5V assuming you are powering the TTL side from the USB supplied by the computer, obviously there is a ground connection and possibly a +12V? If this is all correct can I just verify with my fluke all of these in reference to battery ground?

  • jason@ftecu.comjason@ftecu.com Posts: 1,071Staff User

    Hi,

    Well if you'd like a better explanation, your year and region are a general classification based upon your internal ECU ID. This ID is set in our system from the first file we come across with it. It just so happens your ECU ID is shared with the ID of a 2015 JP model. Now the 2015 JP model isn't the only ECU with that ID but it was the first one we did and entered into our system. Thus recognizing your ECU as that model even if the part number varies.

    The testing process doesn't have to be that complicated.

    Please go to the Help tab then select Test Interface then check the box next to Test Inputs. You'll see different colored circles but we do not care about those, the only thing we care about is the number you see in the parentheses. I assume you are bike side flashing so please give me the number you see with everything connected and key off then everything connected and key on.

    Thanks,

    Jason A.

  • matt.ihnen@gmail.commatt.ihnen@gmail.com Posts: 8Verified User

    Key off: 37, key on:36

  • matt.ihnen@gmail.commatt.ihnen@gmail.com Posts: 8Verified User

    There is a bad/intermittent ground connection, looking into this further I see that the ground wire going into the bike side harness plug was not crimped properly into the connector pin so it was just sitting loosely in there which is why it probably worked before but after some riding the vibrations caused it to come loose. So at this point it appears it is a manufacturing defect. I can pull the pin and crimp it properly if you can tell me how to remove and reinsert the pin otherwise I'm going to need a new harness which means I'm going to have to pull out this one which I would prefer to not have to do since I have already wasted a bunch of my time trying to figure this out.

    For what its worth I did get the bike flashed by just pushing the wire in place long enough to do the flash but the wire is just going to come lose again.

  • jason@ftecu.comjason@ftecu.com Posts: 1,071Staff User

    Hi,

    When looking at the front of the connector there's a locking tab on the top of the pin you must push down then the pin will pull out the back of the connector.

    If you can't get the pin to come out please send us the harness back and I will send you back a brand new one with no issues.

    Thanks,

    Jason A.

  • matt.ihnen@gmail.commatt.ihnen@gmail.com Posts: 8Verified User

    I will look at it tonight and see if I can get it out and let you know if I need another one. Thanks for all of your help.

  • jason@ftecu.comjason@ftecu.com Posts: 1,071Staff User

    Hi,

    Check out this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7H0PsP6b2-Q

    Its obviously a different connector but the pin removal should be the exact same as your connector. You can see the little tab on the pin i was talking about.

    Thanks,

    Jason A.

  • shaunst9@gmail.comshaunst9@gmail.com Posts: 3Verified User

    Hello I had this exact issue and followed the steps listed above. I couldn't get the pin reinserted while maintaining a connection to the ground. How should I go about getting my harness replaced? Thanks.

  • jason@ftecu.comjason@ftecu.com Posts: 1,071Staff User

    When you bend the tab down to pull the pin out you need to bend the tab back up when re-inserting to make sure it locks correctly. If you don't want to deal with that then send us the harness back and we will repair it for you or give you a brand new one.

    Thanks,

    Jason A.

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