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SwedishLicence problems
davemusaphia@btinternet.com
Posts: 38Verified User
in R1
Hi.
I am getting increacingly worried about using the software as I keep getting errors during flashing.
Noticing that you now have a proper 2018 R1 map I thought I would give that a try today and for half an hour I thought my ECU was bricked!
Sent file, "failed".
Resent file, "no licence detected. Would you like to attempt recovery of licence BAE###?"
Yes.
Resend. "no ECU detected".
Repeat for half an hour with increasing levels of panic!
Eventually switched everything off, had a smoke to calm down and tried again. One complete, as in like the very first time, flash and the bike runs again.
Looking in my ecu history shows a whole list of falures but also, it shows my licence listed as a 2015 R1 not a 2018.6
Could this affect it?
Comments
The flash records that we see on our end suggest that you should carefully check the orange and red wires in your harness (i.e., coming loose, starting to pull out of the connector, etc.).
Will do.
Thanks.
Hi.
Pulled it all apart and all connections are solid. Tested with a multimeter for continuity too. Again all good.
Tried to send a photo but get error 500. Guessing it's too big.
What next?
Go to the tuning software, select Help>Test Interface. Conduct a test with both key on and key off. Tell us what number you see in the parentheses in the Test Inputs.
Key off 20
Key on 36
Key off again 30!!
Those are all acceptable input numbers. Key off/no power you're looking for 0,10,20, or 30. Key on/power you're looking for 6, 16, 26, or 36.
Take the protective cover off of your bike-side harness, and turn key on. With a multimeter, jump the red and orange leads. You should see around 5V. If you hear your fuel pump priming, then you have a connection issue with the orange wire. Do the same lead jump with the red and yellow wires, the voltage should be consistent with the red/orange combination. If not, or if you hear the fuel pump priming, you have a connection issue with the yellow wire.
5.1 volts on both tests. No fuel pump prime. This with the kill switch off.
Kill switch needs to be on please.
Same.
5.1 volts. Both tests. No fuel pump prime.
So basically we are at the point where everything checks out, and the last flash you did was successful?
Yes.
But it took half a dozen attempts and until it took I had a dead bike.
I'd just like to say thanks for your help with this.
One more question.
My Wi-Fi signal is pretty good in the garage but, if it dropped a bit, could that cause this?
No, as long as the flash has started, then the interrupted internet signal won't be enough to cause a non-running motorcycle.
Should it be on for a flash as well?
Yes.
Wow. That is the first time I have been told that!!
Sorry, made a mistake, the kill switch position doesn't matter.