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2017 R1 Auto Blipper

prallm1@aol.comprallm1@aol.com Posts: 2Verified User

I have a 2017 R1 with FTECU bike side kit, active tune and auto blipper.  I am having issues with the auto blipper being very hard to down shift.  I have to put substantial pressure (approx. over 50 pounds) on the gear shift linkage to the point that I'm worried I'm going to break the sensor or the shift rod.  I have had the kit on the bike for a couple months and have tried several things to alleviate the issue.  First I tried to swap the QS connections but that just made it difficult to upshift (same issue just in reverse), I've checked the FTECU file to ensure that I have the auto blipper enabled (it is), I've checked all the connections (they are secure and the original PIN 4 wire is grounded to the negative battery terminal), and lastly I have began blipping the throttle myself and this seems to allow the shifts to occur much smoother than when the throttle is fully closed and I step on the shifter.  It should be noted that I have the FTECU auto blipper with one sensor, not the older 2 sensor style.   

Comments

  • gsawyer22@hotmail.comgsawyer22@hotmail.com Posts: 11Verified User

    I had a very similar issue and although you said you have checked your connections well, I would double check the connection of the green wire to the coupler which attaches to the ecu. You may think it's fully seated, but sometimes it's actually not completely inserted. Really make sure it's all the way in there. This solved my issue. Hopefully it will solve yours.

  • garry.charles@sky.comgarry.charles@sky.com Posts: 10Verified User

    Hi, I have the same kit fitted to my 16 R1 it’s light as a feather both ways.

    So when you swapped the quickshifter and blipper connectors around the blipper worked ok but the quickshifter then had the fault.? If that’s correct swapping the connections around moved the fault to the Quickshifter and the blipper started to work correctly then the flash and wiring must be ok.

    sounds like a faulty sensor to me.

    you can test the sensor by leaving it in place but disconnecting the 2 small connections and put a multi meter across each connector one at a time then push and or lift the gear leaver it does take quite a bit of pressure but you should get continuity across each connector. One way for up shifts and one way for down shifts.

    Hope that helps

    Garry.

  • prallm1@aol.comprallm1@aol.com Posts: 2Verified User

    It’s fixed now. The issue was with the FTECU part. There are instructions in the forum from FTECU on how to correct their *#%= up. Apparently the wiring was backwards from the factory.

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