Support Forum

2018 R6 Stock Quickshifter

lithium3rlithium3r Posts: 3Verified User
in R6

My R6 recently developed an issue with the stock quickshifter. It had been working fine with the ftecu kit for a couple of months and then it slowly started getting worse. The issue is that the ignition cut happens at the wrong times, it either won't let me shift with reasonable pressure on the lever and it will cut ignition when I release it (without actually shifting) or when I shift with clutch it will cut ignition after shifting anyway which is infuriating for daily use.

I tried to adjust the linkage length and it does make it behave differently (cuts at different time / won't let me shift / will sometimes shift) but I just haven't been able to adjust it so that it works as smoothly as it used to. When I brought it to the dealer they basically told me that they can't fix it because of the custom ECU image (What would happen to my license if I let them flash factory image? Isn't the code embedded on the ECU?)

Anyway, the issue I'm having with the ftecu is that disabling the quickshifter input in the image file doesn't seem to work as it should. When I did it for the first time it did actually disable it (no QS icon on the dash) but after some time the icon reappeared (without flashing, just when I turned the bike on it was there) and sure enough the QS works (badly) again. Now when I flash an image with QS off it doesn't make any difference, QS works anyway and the icon is present on the dash. I tried flashing the stock image with QS on, then QS off and stuff like that but nothing seems to actually disable it, and if it gets disabled it will come back on after a couple of days.

One workaround is that I could disconnect the cable (that fixes the issue, QS icon is still there but no ignition cut happens, obviously) but it's a huge PITA to get to it and the connector is water tight, so if I disconnect it I'd need to seal them nicely.

I'd appreciate any insight on how to actually disable the QS or adjust it so it works properly, thanks.

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Comments

  • kento_ftecukento_ftecu Posts: 776Staff User

    It sounds like your factory QS hardware is going bad. It should work within a range of motion, and if it was working fine for a few months, then something is wearing out. If you can get to the connector, you could perform this test to see how the sensor is functioning: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QgrdBm-EjCo&t=16s

    The "Enable QSS Input" module is basically there to enable the QS input to begin once you perform the start procedure for the QS. Setting it back to "FALSE" does not disable any QS input once you've enabled it. Your best bet at this point is to disconnect it, unfortunately.

  • lithium3rlithium3r Posts: 3Verified User
    edited September 2019

    Thanks for the response.

    I did see that video and I tested the switch itself. When the linkage is at rest there's 60 Ohms on its terminals, when it's being pulled there's 0 Ohms. That 60 Ohms figure did seem a bit odd to me (shouldn't it just be open?), but since it's shorting the terminals and ignition is being cut I thought that the hardware was fine.

    Could you respond about the license thing? If I let the Yamaha dealer flash the ecu will I be able to flash it later using my harness/license?

  • kento_ftecukento_ftecu Posts: 776Staff User

    Yes, you will be able to reflash the ECU with the original license after the Yamaha dealer resets it. However, you will lose any changes you made to the original file.

    Is the resistance constant, or does it fluctuate? Put pressure on the shifter like you would with your foot, don't jam it up as hard as you can. You are always going to get some sort of resistance with the open circuit.

  • lithium3rlithium3r Posts: 3Verified User

    It's constant unless I put some pressure on it, no fluctuations, it goes 60 Ohms to 0 in an instant. But now that you mention it, it might require a bit more force than a regular shift. I'll have to test it again. One more weird thing that was happening is that sometimes when I'd try to shift I'd put pressure on the lever (it wouldn't shift - the lever wouldn't move fully with a reasonable force) and when I'd release it the ignition would be cut. I couldn't replicate it when measuring the resistance on switch terminals though.

    If I can reflash it then I think I'm just going to let the dealer figure it out and for now I'm just going to keep it disconnected.

    Thanks for the help.

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